Fret Polishing Rubber Erasers 1000 Grit Set of 2

Shines up frets really nice! You can use different sides depending on the task at hand. I’ve used this multiple times and think it will last through many, many, fret jobs!

Good for saddles and nuts too.

Worked fine, after leveling the frets using mostly high grit paper and a leveling beam (make less work for myself). After crowning, I used these to polish the frets before a switched to the mesh pads. Happy Happy Happy P.S. I used dawn and a tooth brush to clean the eraser

First of all, 1000 grit sand paper or wet-and-dry paper are coarser than these 1000 grit rubbers. They cannot be compared and I wouldn’t use some 1000 grit wet-and-dry paper for the last step of some polishing fret job. Maybe some 3000 grit sand paper. However these 1000 grit rubbers do a better job at polishing the frets. There is a noticeable difference. Next. I don’t like chemicals to clean the frets because these liquids or creams may get into the wood of the fingerboard and close to the tang. So I always look for some mechanical method to clean the frets, even if it takes time. And I don’t look for shiny frets. I look for smooth frets and easy bends. Second point (only for a cleaning fret job). It is sometimes said that you need rubber erasers from 180 up to 8000 grit. If the frets are only dull and tarnished, the 1000 grit rubbers will polish the frets nicely and smoothly. In my opinion, there’s no need for finer grits. Finer grits will do no better. Third point. After some filing and re-crowning work with some scratches on the frets, you may need some coarse grits (for instance 180 and 400) before using a 1000 grit rubber. I would advise to protect the fingerboard with some masking tape. First of all because of some possible scratches on the fingerboard while rubbing. And then because of the grime coming out the rubber. This dirt could easily get into the wood of the fingerboard. Finally, the rubber erasers will get dark grey because of the grime. To clean the eraser, some warm tap water and your rubbing fingers – no kidding here! - will do the job, without causing any damage to the eraser. Then let them dry, and these rubbers will last much more than a couple of years.

Does a nice quick polish when needed, without the expense of power tooling.

These work like a champ! I taped off my maple fretboard and polished up the frets which had not been done in years and were quite oxidized. They looked like new in about 10 minutes. It actually took longer to mask the fretboard than it took to polish the frets. I strongly recommend these.

Great price and very quick delivery. Clean frets look and feel good!

Bought these awhile ago (great service BTW) and stashed them in my guitar care bag waiting for the day that we all know will come, time to change out the stings and dole out some TLC on my classical guitar. I did not realize that the frets could get tarnished in time (about a year and a half). This is an intermediate grade guitar so I'm sure the frets are not upper end. Regardless, I started at rubbing and found the right pressure to remove the dulling tarnish to reveal a nicely shiny fret. I might suggest a index card butting against the fret to protect the fret wood for stubborn spots. It would be nice to have a thin metal shim to expose just the fret and protect the wood but I can't seem to find one available though I've seen video of a fellow who used such a rig. All the gunk will dirty the eraser just like a real one though there are no rubber shavings. Does like it says and I would recommend it to increase the guitar's longevity, add to its looks, and contribute to its playability.